I left Chomrong (2210m) at 6:20 and descended a couple of thousand stone steps to lower Chomrong, crossed the Chomrong Khola (1860m) at 6:50, and then trekked steeply uphill to Sinuwa (2340m), reaching the bottom of the village at 7:25, stopping for a Coke and then leaving the upper part of the village at 8:00. “Next day we entered the gorge proper of the Modi Khola. It was an incredibly impressive place, dense forest of gnarled trees and dead bamboos that looked like skeletons in its bed and lower flanks, huge walls towering on either side. Waterfalls cascaded down and the river in the bed of the gorge set up a restless thunder” (Chris Bonington, Annapurna South Face).